POINTS OF INTEREST
Széchenyi Fürdő, the largest medicinal bathing complex in Europe, is housed in a beautiful neo-baroque building in the middle of City Park. There are several thermal pools indoors as well as two outdoor pools, which remain open even in winter, when dense steam hangs thick over the hot water's surface—you can just barely make out the figures of elderly men, submerged shoulder deep, crowded around waterproof chessboards. To use the baths, you pay a standard price (unless you get a doctor's prescription, in which case it's free), plus a small surcharge if you prefer having a private changing cabin instead of a locker. Facilities include medical and underwater massage treatments, carbonated bath treatments, and mud wraps. A great way to sweat away last night's pálinka (fruit brandy).